July Theme Challenge – “Light”

For this month, July 2019, the theme challenge is “Light”.

The above image was captured using an iPhone 6 Plus as the sun was setting in the opposite direction causing a golden light to be cast on the landscape, Perce Rock, Quebec, Canada. As you can see it’s more about the light than the gear.

Let’s face it, it’s impossible to even capture an image without light. Light is what we as photographers use to create our images. The quality, direction, angle, colour, and contrast in light is what helps create fantastic images.

There are many opportunities to create amazing images during all kinds of conditions, I encourage you to get out at different times of the day, and under varying weather conditions to witness and capture the light.

Students are encouraged to develop their ability to tell a story or invoke an emotion, as well as how to plan and troubleshoot while creating their images. As such it’s important to not only create the image but to also include a “title”, and write a short paragraph about; how they came up with the idea, any interesting back ground that compelled them to make the image, and describe any techniques on how they overcame any obstacles.

As always with our monthly theme challenges we try to seek out an instructional resource, below is a YouTube video link to give you some hints and ideas.
Nigel Danson, Landscape Photographer instructional aid:
7 Simple ways to “Master Light” in your Photography
Speaker: Nigel Danson
Link: 7 Simple ways to “Master Light” in your Photography (18min 58sec)

An important part of improving your photography is practice, which is one aspect of the monthly theme challenge, in addition you have an opportunity to learn about different genres, techniques and tips.

Camera Colour Space Setting

Colour Space is simply a definition of reproducible colours, typically shown on a graph in relation to the human eye. The four (4) most common colour spaces are; sRGB, Adobe RGB, CMYK, and ProPhoto RGB.

sRGB is the colour space used for images on the internet and for digital displays (monitors) and represents about 50% of the range or colours that the human eye can see. sRGB is the most common (default) colour space used by photo labs for producing prints.

Typically, any camera which only shoot Jpeg images will not have a choice of colour space setting in the camera and defaults to sRGB.

A camera that has the ability to shoot in RAW will typically provide the ability to choose between sRGB or Adobe RGB. As seen in the diagram Adobe RGB covers a wider range of colours than sRGB and covers a range about 75% of what the human eye can see.

It is always best to set the camera to the highest quality colour space setting , Adobe RGB, to maximize the amount of colour information in your captured images. The conversion to sRGB for printing takes place during image exporting using post processing software. It is important to note, if you do not use post processing software the colour space setting should be set to sRGB to allow for proper printing and displaying of your images.

On a Canon T6i the setting, refer to page 146 in the manual,  is located in the camera menu under the second camera tab. Select Color space, then choose Adobe RGB if you use post processing software otherwise choose sRGB.

On a Nikon D5100 the setting, refer to page 10 in the manual. Start by pressing the menu button, then select shooting menu, choose color space and then select Adobe RGB if you use post processing software otherwise choose sRGB.

In our next lesson we will discuss setting the camera’s image resolution.

Camera “Autofocus” Basics

It’s been awhile since my last post as I have been working on how to simplify a complex subject to explain controlling the camera’s autofocus system by covering the basics of what you need to know to start getting sharp images.

The camera’s focusing system plays the primary role in helping you achieve a sharp image. Depending on the type of camera there are a number of aspects that we need to discuss, to learn how to set the camera focusing system to best match your shooting scenario.

Acquiring focus, with the default settings, will start when you push the shutter button 1/2 way down while pointing at a subject of interest. At this moment, the camera will determine the exposure and focus the lens simultaneously within fractions of a second. However, we need to understand what focus settings are best for each shooting scenario to know how to set them accordingly.

We will discuss the basic settings of the focus system by breaking it down into three parts; (1) Focus mode switch (selecting autofocus or manual), (2) Autofocus mode (choosing a single or continuous autofocus mode), and (3) Focusing area (setting a focus point or focus area), is the most complex part of the focusing system.

(1) Focus mode switch: DSLR’s, with Canon the Focus mode switch is typically located on the barrel of the lens. Set the switch to the “AF” position to enable autofocus. If you set the switch to the “MF” position autofocus is disabled, then you are required to manually adjust the focus by turning the focusing ring on the lens. For most situations, typically set the mode switch to “AF” position.

For Nikon the designations are “M/A”, autofocus with manual override, and “M” for manual.

When using a bridge camera such as a Canon SX30, or a compact camera such as the Canon SX100, access the Focus mode by first pressing the left “◄” of the “control dial“. Then press the left “◄” or right “►” of the “control dial” to select one of the three (3) focus modes; Macro (autofocus for close subjects), Normal (autofocus for non-close subjects), and Manual (manual focus mode).  To accept the setting press the “func/set” button located in the center of the “control dial“.

When using an iPhone with the native camera app you do not have the ability to manually focus, if you want manual focusing capability choose a third party camera app, for example; Camera+, ProCamera or VSCO. Refer to their respective manuals to learn how to switch between the auto or manual focus setting.

(2) Autofocus modes: DSLR’s, with Canon there are typically three autofocus modes to choose from; One Shot, AI-Focus, and AI-Servo. (A) The “One Shot” setting is best used for subjects that are not moving, (B) “AI-Focus” will automatically switch between “One Shot” if the subject is stationary and “AI-Servo if the camera detects the subject is moving, and (C) the “AI-Servo” setting is best used for subjects that are moving.

For Nikon the three autofocus modes to choose from are; (A) “AF-S” (Single-servo autofocus for stationary subjects), (B) “AF-A” (Auto-servo autofocus the camera automatically switches between AF-S if the subject is stationary or AF-C if the camera detects the subject is moving), and (C) “AF-C” (continuous-servo autofocus for moving subjects).

When using a bridge camera such as a Canon SX30, there are two autofocus modes to choose from; (A) Servo AF Off or (B) Servo AF On, accessed by pressing the menu button and then the “▲” or “▼” on the control dial, then use the “◄” or “►” to change the setting. Servo AF Off is used for stationary subjects while Servo AF On is used for moving subjects.

When using a compact camera such as the Canon SX100, there are two autofocus modes to choose from; (A) Single or (B) Continuous, accessed by pressing the menu button and then the “▲” or “▼” on the control dial, then use the “◄” or “►” to change the setting. Single is used for stationary subjects while Continuous is used for moving subjects.

With an iPhone you tap the screen where you want to focus and the camera is in continuous focus mode, if you tap and hold, the AE/FE lock will appear and at that point the camera holds that focus setting.

(3) Focusing Area: DSLR’s, depending on the camera capabilities will vary. With a Canon T6i for example there are three Focus areas to choose from; Single-point AF, Zone AF, and 19-point auto select AF. (A) Single-point AF allows the user to manually select any one of the 19 focus points. (B) Zone AF allows the user to manually select groups of focus points. (C) 19-point auto select AF allows the camera to select the focus point that is closest to the subject. Starting out the recommended setting would be (B) Zone AF as the user has the ability to manually move the groups to an area to satisfy the desired composition.

For a Nikon D5100 for example there are four Focus areas to choose from; Single-point AF, Dynamic-area AF, 3D-tracking, and Auto-area AF. (A) Single-point AF allows the user to manually select any one of the 11 focus points. (B) Dynamic-area AF allows the user to manually select the focus point with the camera using adjacent focus points to help keep the subject in focus. (C) 3D-tracking allows the user to manually select the initial focus point which then allows the camera to track the subject focused on by using all the focus points. (D) Auto-area AF allows the camera select the focus point that is closest to the subject. Starting out the recommended setting would be (C) 3D-tracking.

When using a bridge camera such as a Canon SX30, there are three Focus areas to choose from via the AF Frame menu option; FlexiZone, Center, and Face Detect. (A) FlexiZone is for focusing on a specific point where the user can change the size and position of the frame. (B) Center locks the frame to the center. (C) With Face Detect the camera automatically tries to detect peoples faces, locks on and attempts to follow the subject to keep the subject in focus. Starting out the recommended setting would be (A) FlexiZone.

When using a compact camera such as the Canon SX100, there are two focus areas available via the AF Frame menu option; Center and Face Detect. (A) Center locks the frame to the center. (B) With Face Detect the camera automatically tries to detect peoples faces, locks on and attempts to follow the subject to keep the subject in focus. Starting out the recommended setting would be (A) Center.

With an iPhone the only focus area is the box that appears when you tap the screen. If you do not tap an area on the screen the camera will decide on what it thinks is the focus point. Starting out the recommended operation is to tap the screen where you want the camera to focus.

Take time to go over this lesson concentrating on the sections that best apply to your camera. The focus system is something that will take time to master and with more practice you will eventually be able to understand and control the appropriate settings to achieve sharp images.

The camera “mode” dial

Canon T6i Mode Dial

The camera mode dial provides a means for the user to help the camera make better aperture, shutter speed and ISO setting decisions based on typical scenarios.

The mode settings; M, Av, Tv, P, etc…, are set by turning the dial on your camera to the desired position that best suits the shooting scenario.

The mode dial is typically split into two areas; (1) the creative zone and (2) the basic zone. For this lesson we will discuss the modes within the “creative zone“.

“M” – Manual Mode
The user takes complete control setting the aperture, shutter speed, and ISO for a correct exposure based on the camera’s exposure metering mode, also set by the user. The exposure value is the resulting exposure from the user settings, displayed on the camera’s reflective meter. The camera can auto adjust the ISO if it is set to AUTO. The user can limit the highest ISO value via a setting typically found in the camera menu.

“Av” – (Nikon “A”) Aperture Priority Mode
The user takes control of setting the aperture and ISO. The camera automatically sets the shutter speed for a correct exposure based on the current exposure metering mode setting and the exposure compensation setting, both controlled by the user. Aperture is part of the creative control for depth of field. The camera will also adjust the ISO if it is set to AUTO. The user can limit the highest ISO value via a setting typically found in the camera menu.

“Tv” – (Nikon “S”) Time Value (Shutter Priority) Mode
The user takes control of setting the shutter speed and ISO. The camera automatically sets the aperture for a correct exposure based on the current exposure metering mode setting and the exposure compensation setting, both controlled by the user. Shutter Speed is part of the creative control to show motion. The camera will also adjust the ISO if it is set to AUTO. The user can limit the highest ISO value via a setting typically found in the camera menu.

“P” – Program mode (Does NOT mean Professional Mode)
The camera automatically sets the shutter speed and the aperture value for a correct exposure based on the current exposure metering mode setting and the exposure compensation setting, both controlled by the user.

In “P” mode the camera uses an algorithm based on the amount of available light in addition to the lens aperture and focal length capabilities. The user can adjust the camera’s determined settings by moving the main dial (on the top right front of the camera adjusted with your index finger). While adjusting the main dial you will see both the shutter speed & aperture change, however, once the lens has reached the widest aperture you will not be able to adjust the shutter speed any higher. Note the algorithm starts fresh each time you take a picture.

The camera will also adjust the ISO if it is set to AUTO, the camera tends to use the lowest possible value while still maintaining a minimum of 1/(focal length) shutter speed. The user can limit the highest ISO value via a setting typically found in the camera menu.

In our next lesson we will discuss how a camera performs auto focus and what the settings mean.